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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.